Cartagena de las Indias, known simply as Cartagena, is a historic city on Colombia’s Atlantic coast. It is famed for its beautiful historic architecture, its sea-side location, and its rich Afro-Colombian cultural influences.
Why Travel To This Place
I traveled to Cartagena the summer after graduating from university in 2023. After four years of college during which I spent my summer vacations either researching or interning, I was looking to spend my first post-grad summer in a place where I could have the perfect mix of relaxation and vibrance. I was drawn to Cartagena because it would offer me a relaxing sea-side vacation as well as all of the excitement that comes with city life. If you also want the best of both worlds, Cartagena is an ideal place for a getaway.
Furthermore, I was drawn to the history and heritage of Cartagena given its status as an epicenter of Afro-Colombian culture. While there, I was constantly bearing witness to the many similarities between Afro-Colombian culture and other cultures of the African diaspora: the first time I heard Colombian champeta, I thought I was listening to Congolese soukous or rumba. The meal I had almost daily— fish, patacones (fried plantains), and arroz de coco (coconut rice)– reminded me of dishes I grew up eating in the homes of my Caribbean and African friends and family. The Palenqueras who walked down the street with fruit baskets on their heads invoked familiar images of African women going to and from the market balancing their own baskets in a way that seemed to defy gravity. For this reason, Cartagena is a destination I would particularly recommend to those interested in the afro-diasporic cultural heritage.
Cartagena is an excellent destination for all sorts of trips. I visited as a solo female traveler and found that with basic street smarts and caution, I was able to have a great time while staying safe. The city became even more fun once I made friends with other solo travelers, so I believe that Cartagena is an ideal spot for group trips as well.
Itinerary:
The city is quaint and easy to get to know, so you can do everything I recommend in a few days. It is the perfect place to visit if you want to get away but do not have a lot of time, or if you are traveling in Colombia and want to make a stop on the Atlantic coast. No matter the length of your stay, this itinerary will ensure you get to experience some of the best that Cartagena has to offer!
Where to Stay:
While in Cartagena, I, like many of my friends, stayed in a hostel in the Old Town of Cartagena. Old city is separated into two neighborhoods: Getsemani and Centro Historico. It is best to stay in the Historico Centro or Getsemani because these neighborhoods are relatively safe, walkable, and touristy so you don’t have to worry about sticking out as a foreigner. The two neighborhoods have very different vibes: centro is more commercialized and you will find Cartagena’s fancier hotels there. However, Getsemani is more popular among young crowds because the streets are lined with art (Getsemani is famous for its street art!), there is a party every night, and there are many small businesses. You will find more hostels, airbnbs, and cheap hotels there as a result.
Eight Must-Do Activities:
- Old city walking tour
- Beaches: Boca Grande, Islas del Rosario, or Isla Baru
- El Totumo Mud Volcano
- Night out in Getsemani
- Chiva Party Busses
- Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
- Boat ride in the bay
Old City Walking Tour
The old city walking tour is an excellent thing to do on your first day in Cartagena. It allows you to get oriented as well as learn a bit about the history of the 500-year old city that is hosting you. Some of my fondest memories in Cartagena were simply walking the colorful streets of the old city because there is an intangible aura of romance and mystique that one feels within Cartagena’s historic neighborhoods. Those feelings are only amplified when one has an understanding of the significance of what is around them. The old city walking tour helps you gain that understanding because the tour guide does an excellent job of explaining the city’s history and linking it to present day Cartagenera culture. During the tour, your guide will introduce you to Cartagena’s staples. You will taste local sweets, fruits, and juices; listen to Colombian music and learn local dance styles; and also visit the best places to buy art or eat a meal. The tour itself is technically free as the guides are paid entirely in tips. However, it is such a great tour that you will want to give a really good tip after. These tours take place daily and begin in the Plaza Santa Teresa at 9:30am, 10:00am, and 4:00pm. To join a tour, either show up at the plaza and find the guide with the yellow umbrella, or register ahead of time at freetourcartagena.com.
Beaches: Boca Grande, Islas del Rosario, Playa Blanca, & Isla Baru
A trip to Cartagena would not be complete without swimming in the aquamarine waters of the Caribbean. However, to take advantage of the best beaches I suggest going a bit outside Cartagena to Playa Blanca or the Islas del Rosario. While there are beaches in Cartagena, the most popular of which are in Boca Grande (another neighborhood proximate to Getsemani and Centro Historico), these beaches are usually quite busy and may not offer you the tranquility you seek from a beach day. Thus, the islands are the best option for enjoying the white sands, blue waters, and relative tranquility of Colombia’s Atlantic coast. There are a number of companies that offer getaways to the Rosario Islands, so you are spoiled for choice in terms of what you can do. Popular getaways include boat tours to various islands, boat parties, or activity-centered tours that offer things such as snorkeling or swimming in the bioluminescent bay at night. Rather than doing a day boat tour, a friend and I booked a weekend at Isla Baru where we glamped on the beach at a hotel called Cabanas de Geronimo. At Isla Baru, we spent our time taking boat rides, snorkeling, swimming, and drinking fresh juices out of pineapples on the beach. It was an excellent weekend, so I would recommend an Isla Baru getaway to anyone who visits Cartagena. You can book a day trip through Get Your Guide. There are also a myriad of tourist companies on the ground, so it’s pretty easy to find one just walking around the old city: that’s what I did. However, beware of scams– the safest option is probably to book through a reputable site online.
El Totumo Mud Volcano
How many times in your life do you think you will get the opportunity to go inside a volcano, let alone an active one? At the Totumo Mud Volcano, you can have this once-in-a-lifetime experience! Totumo is an active mud volcano located about 1 hour outside Cartagena. At this volcano, you will have the opportunity to take a bath in volcanic mud which is reputed for its healing properties. Totumo is like a natural spa because the volcanic mud also offers benefits for your skin and the sensation of being in the volcano is quite relaxing. To maximize the time you can have in the Volcano, I recommend going on a weekday or early in the morning before large crowds arrive. You can book transportation and tickets to the volcano on Get Your Guide.
Night out in Getsemani
Getsemani is one of the neighborhoods in old Cartagena. Like Centro Historico, it is stunning with its multi-colored buildings and tiny windy streets. However, Getsemani is perhaps more authentic than the old city. Unlike Historico Centro which has largely been gentrified and now has few private residences, many Cartagena locals still live and run small businesses in Getsemani. The local character of Getsemani is evidenced in its nightlife. Almost every night, the streets of Getsemani turn into a party. Every streetside bar opens its doors, sets up tables outside, and plays music. As a result, people literally spend their evenings dancing in the streets. For this reason, Getsemani is frequented by locals, tourists, and expats alike. Getsemani is not just a popular night-out spot on weekends– it’s lively all week long. My friends from Spanish school and I had a weekly tradition of going out on Wednesday nights for “miércoles mojitos.” For your own night out in Getsemani, I recommend starting at Plaza del Trinidad, and then going onto whichever adjoining street best fits your vibe. Some streets are bustling and full of people dancing, and some streets are quieter but have lots of outdoor seating if you want to sit down for a meal or a drink. If you want a more conventional nightlife experience, some of the best bars and clubs are also located in Getsemani. Alquímico and Casa Palenque are popular clubs in the area, but my best recommendation is by far the famous Café Havana. Café Havana has a live band which plays salsa music. It is packed almost every night of the week, so go ready to dance!
Chiva Party Busses
The chivas are one of the most unique aspects of Cartagena nightlife. During the day, the chivas offer tours of the city. However, at night, they transform into party-buses. You hear them before you see them: they drive throughout the streets of Cartagena playing loud music– reggaeton, salsa, or even rap– while the passengers on board dance along. They are essentially mobile nightclubs. Like many of the experiences I have mentioned, a night on a chiva can be booked in advance through GetYourGuide, or you can hop on a chiva bus as you see them driving through the city. If you decide to hop on board a random bus, I suggest only doing so if you are in a group of people, not by yourself.
Sunset Drinks at Café del Mar
Cartagena’s historical district is largely encircled by a stone wall which was built in the 17th century to fortify the city. Today, the wall is one of the most famed features of Cartagena. It wraps the historico centro, so it is an excellent place from which to take in the city. While in Cartagena, watching a sunset from atop the wall is a must, and there is no better place to do so than at Café del Mar. Located directly on the wall of the old city and overlooking the ocean, Cafe del Mar offers a stunning vantage point from which to watch the sun set over the sea. The cafe has a very extensive cocktail list that employs local ingredients to create a fusion of tropical flavors, making it an excellent place for drinks in the evening. The atmosphere of Café del Mar, curated through music and a tasteful menu, makes the view all the more enjoyable.
Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas is the largest Spanish fortress in South America. Given its size and its strategic positioning upon a hill, it offers an even more stunning view of Cartagena than the walls of the old city. In addition to taking in the best view in Cartagena, you will also be able to receive a transportative history lesson as you wander through the tunnels of the fortress. You can buy self-guided tickets on-site, or you can book a guided trip– which includes tours of other historical sites– ahead of your visit.
Boat Ride in the Bay
Since Cartagena is a coastal city, another excellent way to see the cityscape is by boat. There are a myriad of ways to enjoy a boat ride– from day boat tours, sunset tours, or dinner cruises. You can book a private boat tour for your group, or opt for one of the evening party cruises if you want something more social. These various options can be booked in advance on Get Your Guide, or you can simply show up at the dock and inquire about availability on various tours. If you book at the dock, be careful to ensure that you are booking from a reputable company: only pay for a booking within a company office– never pay someone directly on the street. Further, try to pay with your bank card as opposed to with cash since cash is non-traceable. No matter which option you choose, a boat ride is definitely a must-do activity in Cartagena because, if you ask me, boat rides are a quintessential part of any vacation by the water.
There is more…
Cartagena offers so much more than the eight activities I have named. For example, you should also learn about the city’s history and culture through its many museums. Further, make sure to enjoy Cartagena’s tropical cuisine through staple dishes from Arepas (my favorite was arepas de huevos), to Posta Negra, to ceviche (try it at La Cevicheria– Anthony Bordain’s favorite Ceviche restaurant). You should also take joy in the simple pleasures, much like I did, of getting gelato and walking around the old city or watching the sunset over the water. Your time in Cartagena is what you make it, but these eight recommendations will help you get a comprehensive taste of some of what the city has to offer.
